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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.